Design Development Using Jacquard on Handloom-Power Loom & Cad

This industry is uniquely characterized by the coexistence of three distinct weaving sectors—cottage handloom, unorganized power-loom, and modernized mill sectors—each contributing to the diversity and richness of textile production. Unlike developed countries where only modernized mills dominate, India continues to preserve and utilize traditional weaving techniques alongside modern technologies. This paper highlights the strengths and challenges of the handloom sector, particularly its ability to produce intricate and cost-effective woven structures that are unfeasible on mechanized looms. It explores the creative potential for textile designers to experiment with new weave structures using handlooms, enhanced by mechanical jacquard machines and evolving shedding technologies. A novel concept, ‘Two-in-One’ reversible fabric, damask weaves, demonstrates innovative approaches to double-weave design, offering both aesthetic and functional advantages. Additionally, the paper discusses the integration of Computer Aided Textile Designing (CATD) tools such as Tex Graphics and Ned-Graphics in jacquard graph and color pattern designing. However, the high cost of such software limits accessibility for the cottage and unorganized sectors, highlighting the need for more affordable technological solutions to bridge the digital divide in textile design.